A popular topic of discussion among my friends is based on the thought that there are certain places in Tehran that MUST be visited. Having visited all of these places is almost like a badge of honour.
For some time now, I’ve been trying to compile a list of these places, and unsurprisingly, I’ve found it to be quite a large list. So here is a list of 19 places that, for one reason or another, represent the quintessential Tehran dining experience. I stopped at 19 because I’m sure there are plenty of suggestions for number 20! The list is in alphabetical order:
1. Akbar Masti
The origin and source of Iran’s national ice cream is subject to much debate. The saffron and rosewater flavored ice cream was first served on Rey Street (South Tehran) in a shop that is still operating. But the real Akbar Mashti can be found on Shahrdari street between Tajrish and Ghods squares. And indeed it is a true original.
2.Bahar Kebab
At the end of Bahar street, just before the intersection with Bahar-e-Shiraz street, it is arguably one of the best sources of minced kebab (Koubideh) in Tehran. It’s not pretty, but the combination of hot kebab and bread fresh from the clay oven makes for a delicious meal.
3. Cafe Naderi
As one of Tehran’s most iconic cafe/restaurants, Cafe Naderi is revered for its “Chateaubriand” steak and of course its selection of coffees. Once famous as the gathering place for Tehran’s literati, Cafe Naderi, which is situated on Jomhuri road near the Ferdowsi intersection, is now used more to cater to tourists and diplomats.
4. Estakhr Vanak
This simple and efficient restaurant is famous for its spring chicken kebab. There doesn’t seem to be anything complicated about it, but somehow they manage to make a better chicken kebab than anywhere else in Tehran.
5. Feraidoon Sandwich
This popular sandwich shop is commonly known by a very unflattering name (which will not be used here). They serve a typical set of hot and cold sandwiches including chicken, steak, and tongue. It is particularly famous for its large fries which are fantastic. The store is situated at the end of Eshgyar (also known as Niloufar) street near Khoramshahr avenue and is instantly recognizable by its old signboard.
6. Dizisara (Iranshahr)
Considered by many to be the best place in Tehran for traditional abgoosht (stewed meat), this restaurant is a place where people from all walks of life come together to enjoy a hearty meal in traditional settings. The service is at the speed of light to be able to deal with the constant queue of customers abroad. An especially lovely place to visit for non-Iranians. Dizisara is located on Azarshahr street between Iranshahr street and Gharani street.
7. Disciples in Takhti Square
No one is quite sure what this place is called and no one bothers to ask. All you have to say is “Dizi in Takhti Square” and it’s clear. This restaurant operates only a few hours during lunch. Before lunch, the dizi are still cooking and around 2:00 pm they are exhausted. The demand is tremendous so you have to go early. The exact location is on Vatani street, under a big car dealership.
8. Jose’s sandwiches
The tiny kitchen of this little shop (located on the same street as Feraidoon) manages to turn out a surprisingly large number of sandwiches in a day. The Olivier Salad sandwich is one of my favorites in Tehran, although Joseph is also very famous for his cold cut sandwiches. Don’t be surprised if the guy ahead of you in line orders 30 sandwiches. Those are typical Joseph clients.
9. Joshbin
This is a very small restaurant, although you wouldn’t notice it by the number of people inside. Khoshbin, which is situated on Saadi street just after Manoochehri street, is generally known as Hassan Rashti. In my many visits I have never met Hassan and don’t really know if he exists, but the authenticity of the Rashti food is beyond doubt. Try the salted fish roe and walnuts for a starter, then order everything else on the menu. It’s so good.
10. Cosravi
Some of the foods on this list are unhealthy and not everyone’s cup of tea. Khosravi serves an Iranian adaptation of the deep-fried Russian Pirozhki and offers them with a variety of fillings such as sweet cream, potato, and meat. It is located on Jomhuri road, just before Hafez intersection. If you go there, take a taxi because in addition to beating the traffic, you’ll want to take off those delicious calories by walking.
11.Moby Dick
Many of us have heard of the fantastic feasts our parents ate at Moby Dick, which today caters to the masses in a “drive-through” format. The system is like a school canteen. You grab a tray and walk the length of a long buffet placing your order from the servers behind the counter. Options include a wide variety of freshly cooked Iranian and international dishes at reasonable prices. Most people go there for the famous Moby Dick Chelo-Kebab. The restaurant is located on Gharani road.
12. Muslim
Like one of the many restaurants in the Grand Bazaar, Moslem is situated in the square at the entrance to the Bazaar. As soon as you step foot inside the door and are ushered upstairs in a line, you grab a tray, grab your drink, grab your sides and order your food which is delivered within minutes.
13. Nayeb (Vozara)
Among Tehran foodies it is almost a sin not to have visited the old Nayeb on Vozara Street and once you try the steak kebab (Barg) you will understand why this branch of Nayeb has such a following.
14. Pray Lohme
It’s amazing how many people who know Reza Loghme haven’t tried it. This small sandwich shop only serves one main item known as Loghme, which is deep-fried minced meat wrapped in Lavash thin flatbread. It is one of the cheapest meals in the city and this is probably reflected in the quality of the meat. But the taste of juicy meat draws so many people to 30 Tir Street that it’s a real struggle to place your order.
15.Reyhoon
Named for the herb that accompanies all of its dishes, Reyhoon offers a variety of kebabs that are only served with freshly baked bread. Although the prices are not low, almost every item on the menu is perfectly prepared. Start with the chopped kebab and then work your way down the menu.
16.sahand
Some people are not familiar with Sahand even though it has a solid reputation for serving one of the best Chelo-Kebabs in the city. Its menu is reminiscent of Tabriz restaurants and includes some interesting options of chicken or lamb kebabs. Unusually, they also bake their own mini-sized Sangak bread. Sahand is located on North Mofateh Street before the Motahari intersection.
17. Seyed Mehdi
This midnight hangout is famous for three things: the traditional ice cream, the hot broth, and the traffic jam on Vali Asr street. Seyed Mehdi is actually two shops side by side, one serving ice cream and Faloudeh (ice cream noodles), the other shop serving hot broth (Aash) and wheat porridge (Haleem). They close shortly after midnight and open just four hours later. You can find Seyed Mehdi as you head south from Tajrish Square along Vali Asr Street.
18.Shandiz
This restaurant is all about lamb chops. Of course, they serve all kinds of kebabs, but almost everyone goes there for their famous lamb chops, marinated and grilled in the traditional Shandiz/Mashad style. There are very few places serving meat of this quality in Tehran. I have personally seen someone consume 3.5 skewers (that’s 18 lamb chops) in one sitting.
19. Yegane
Walking into Yeganeh is like stepping back in time because they serve the same style of sandwiches that were popular during our childhood. Whether you want a Brain sandwich or hot Bandari sausage, you can be sure it’s going to be heavy, oily and exceptionally delicious.