I am not a nutritionist, nor am I a doctor. (Although a medical student helped me write this post.) With that said, consult a doctor before making any decisions about seriously changing your diet.
We all want to climb stronger. We train and perfect our technique in the gym day after day: climbing, hangboards, cross training, anything we can do to get stronger. However, I think many of us overlook one of the most important aspects of training… what we eat! It is something that I recently started to take seriously in my own activities. With many of us living off fast food and beer, we have been selling ourselves short of our climbing potential.
With the right diet you can climb, last longer and have an overall feeling of good health! Climbing is obviously a physically demanding sport and therefore requires the correct sustenance to function optimally.
A diet that provides everything you need for a healthy life is the most important aspect of a good diet. Many of us, myself included, deprive ourselves of some forms of nutrition while at the same time going out of our way to eat as much of some other substance as possible. This may even be true in our never-ending quest for more protein; Depending on the source, you can get some of the amino acids you need while completely avoiding some of the others that are just as important. (More on that later)
Another aspect of a strong climbing diet is the type of food we eat. There is nothing worse than being on the rock and seeing your energy reserves depleted. It’s important to eat foods that not only give you energy, but give you energy for the long term and with the best ratio of good things to bad things. My morning routine before I hit the tanks used to be a sugar free RedBull (you know because the sugar free part made it healthier) and a Cliff bar; While this gave me a lot of energy early in the day, it left me wanting as the day went on. For long-term energy, you must consume complex carbohydrates!
complex carbohydrates: Unlike simple carbohydrates, which contain only one or two sugars, complex carbohydrates consist of three or more sugars linked in a chain. These complex carbohydrates take longer to break down due to their complex structure. Because of this, the energy provided by complex carbohydrates lasts longer and tends not to spike your blood sugar—no spike, no crash. Complex carbohydrates also have more nutritional value than their simple counterparts; rich in fiber, minerals and vitamins. Complex carbohydrates can be found in a variety of foods, including vegetables, whole-grain bread, pasta, and grains like brown rice.
protein: It’s the end of the whole athletic diet. Ask any athlete about their diet and the answer will always be: high protein! However, there is a good reason for this protein obsession. Proteins are the building blocks of life and, more importantly, muscle. You need protein in your diet to help your body repair cells and build new ones. When protein is digested, the amino acids are left behind. Your body needs these amino acids to build the proteins needed to power cell construction and organ function.
The nine essential amino acids:
histidine
isoleucine
leucine
lysine
methionine
Phenylalanine
threonine
tryptophan
valine
These amino acids are not produced by the body, they must be consumed in the food we eat. Different foods have different types of protein and, in turn, different types of amnio acids. It is important to consume all of these amino acids throughout the day.
The amount of protein (in grams) the average person needs per day: Multiply your weight in pounds by 0.37.
However, for climbers and other endurance athletes: you will need to multiply your weight in pounds by .6 to .8
OK…OK…we know protein is important, but how do I get the right kinds? Well, I’m glad you asked. Everyone knows that meat has protein; in fact, if you ask most people where they think protein comes from, that’s the answer you’ll get. Now, this is all true; animal tissue is a legitimate source of protein, probably even more protein than you really need. However, it is also a potent source of cholesterol, which in excess leads to problems such as heart disease. There are also studies suggesting that the consumption of animal products contributes to many different forms of cancer. If you choose to eat meat as your protein source, try to stay away from red meat and stick with lean meats like fish or poultry. Unfermented soy (such as found in most soy milk and tofu) is also a viable option for protein, but should really be consumed in moderation due to the fact that it is usually genetically modified and accumulates with estrogen levels.
However, protein can also be found in a litany of natural, plant-based foods!
High-protein vegetable sources:
Seeds and Nuts
chia seeds
Hemp seeds
almonds
Misery
Beans
lentils
White beans
black Eyed Peas
Grain
Integral rice
Oat bran
vegetables
Corn
Broccoli
potatoes
This is just a short list. There are tons of plant-based foods that are high in protein.
Now, if you’re like me and have decided to become a vegetarian… Okay, I’m just a pescetarian, but that sounds pedantic. As fish. sue me! Regardless, if you’re trying to eat protein in the 80-100 gram range, you’re going to have to work at it. That means making sure you get some eggs (not too many), fish, nuts, and possibly a plant-based protein powder to supplement your diet to hit these numbers. It’s more than possible to get enough protein on a vegetarian diet, it just takes a little planning.
fats: Obviously climbing is a strength-to-weight game, but don’t be afraid of the good fats. Your body needs fatty acids to function properly. These can be found in nuts, olives, avocados, and some fish. Try to avoid saturated fats: these are fatty acids that, at room temperature, are usually solid. Imagine that in your bloodstream… These fats can help raise cholesterol. Saturated fats can be found in margarine, oils, fatty meats, and dairy products.
Trans fat they are a subtype of unsaturated fats that are not found in natural foods, but are a byproduct of the production of hydrogenated oils. These are the fats that lead to atherosclerosis, which is when cholesterol plaques stick to blood vessels, blocking blood flow. Atherosclerosis then leads to hypertension and heart disease, the leading cause of death in Americans. There is NO “healthy” amount of trans fat.
You may have heard that coconut oil is a superfood. As a small and medium chain fatty acid, it is absorbed directly in the small intestine and does not overload the liver. It can be a quick source of energy, but there is debate about how effective it can be. If you really need a RedBull, try a tablespoon of coconut oil.
High Fructose Corn Syrup (HFCS):
HFCS however, is never a quick source of energy. Once HFCS is ingested, the body actually uses energy (ATP) to store it; the body does not create energy from HFCS immediately. HFCS is actually stored as triglycerides (a fat); you want as few triglycerides in your body as possible. The only way this could be useful is if you consumed a large amount of HFCS and then were stranded on a desert island, accessing the stored energy only while starving.
Hydration: An important and often overlooked aspect of a healthy diet (especially a climbing-oriented diet) is hydration. Hydration is a key component for strength and endurance. When you’re on the crag, it’s extremely important to have enough water, especially considering the 30-pack you probably killed last night (we call it negative training).
However, this leads to the age old philosophical debate… Water or Gatorade?
Now, Gatorade (and other sports drinks for that matter) provide an excellent source of electrolytes, necessary for healthy neural connectivity. But, not to take anything away from the University of Florida-inspired sports drink, many come with a healthy dose of sugar, glucose or fructose, which you’ll want to avoid.
You can never go wrong with a good supply of water!